Gear List

What’s in your pack?

Mountaineering gear is complicated. Fancy fabrics, techy short-hand, and vague temperature ratings – no matter if you are just beginning to assemble your mountaineering kit or if you are merely looking to upgrade select pieces, you’ll have to do a lot of research before settling on what’s often a pricey investment. With the below details, we’re trying to make it easy and give general guidance, as well as examples of actual gear and brands that we here at AWExpeditions love and use. If you have questions after reviewing this article, don’t hesitate to get in touch: we’re here to help.

Glove Layering

  • Material: Thicker fleece, softshell material with wind and water resistance.
  • Purpose: Provides additional warmth for moderate activity levels in cold but not extreme conditions.
  • Features: Good dexterity, some weather protection.

AWE recommends…
Fleece/deerskin lined winter gloves like these.

 

  • Material: Durable, waterproof outer shell (Gore-Tex or similar), with synthetic insulation (PrimaLoft, etc.).
  • Purpose: Blocks wind, rain, and snow while providing significant warmth. Worn as the outer layer during high-exertion activities or in extreme cold/wet conditions.
  • Features: Waterproof, good warmth-to-weight ratio, wrist cinch cord for secure fit.
  • Looking for Sunny’s #1 glove rec? These Deerskin insulated gloves are IT!
    • Deerskin leathers have intrinsic water-repelling property. This means that even if it gets wet, it won’t dry stiff like other leathers. This property of the leather makes it ideal to use in humid climates or light rain.

      That being said, keep in mind that deerskin gloves are not waterproof. It takes special treatment and processing to make it waterproof. If you anticipate wet conditions and getting your hands soaked then use a fully waterproof or GoreTex mountaineering glove/mitt.

AWE recommends…

https://www.rei.com/product/192266/black-diamond-soloist-gloves

https://www.rei.com/product/192266/black-diamond-soloist-gloves

  • Material: Similar to outer shell gloves, but with thicker insulation and a mitten design for maximum warmth.
  • Purpose: Worn over the other layers for extreme cold or high winds at summit attempts or during emergencies.
  • Features: Very warm, may have a removable trigger finger for added dexterity.

AWE recommends…

Men's Alti II GORE-TEX Mitts

  • Looking for Sunny’s #1 glove rec? These Deerskin insulated gloves are IT!
    • Deerskin leathers have intrinsic water-repelling property. This means that even if it gets wet, it won’t dry stiff like other leathers. This property of the leather makes it ideal to use in humid climates or light rain.

      That being said, keep in mind that deerskin gloves are not waterproof. It takes special treatment and processing to make it waterproof. If you anticipate wet conditions and getting your hands soaked then use a fully waterproof or GoreTex mountaineering glove/mitt.

  • Consider bringing an extra pair of lightweight liners in case the first pair gets wet.
  • Ensure all gloves fit well and allow for good dexterity when handling climbing gear.
  • Practice putting on and removing all layers quickly while wearing thick winter clothes.
  • Carry hand warmers as an emergency backup for extra warmth.

Footwear

What type of mountaineering boots you need depends on the expedition that you are embarking on.  Generally speaking, when we say "mountaineering boots" we mean rigid, full-shank boots that are crampon compatible. LOWA's Alpine Expert boots are a great example for a high-quality single mountaineering boot that will work well in most weather conditions on glaciated peaks in the Lower 48, and in warm weather on select 5,000 and 6,000 meter mountaineering peaks.  The main elements to look out for in a mountaineering boot are: single vs double (double = removable inner/liner boot; much warmer, and appropriate for extreme altitude & weather); rigid vs soft (you need rigid boots for crampon compatibility);

  1. For Aconcagua, Elbrus, and the Himalayas, you'll need a double boot like the LOWA Expedition 6000 EVO Rd.
  2. For 5000 meter summits in Peru, and glaciated peaks in the US like Mount Shasta, Mount Baker, and Mount Rainier, a warm single boot such as the LOWA Alpine Expert typically works well. If you are climbing in early season or are encountering unusually severe conditions, you may need a double boot which can be rented on location.
  3. For Kilimanjaro, you do NOT need a mountaineering (i.e. rigid, crampon compatible) boot. A sturdy, waterproof and warm hiking boot such as the LOWA Mauria Evo GTX is generally sufficient for Kilimanjaro. If you know that you run cold and would like a warmer boot for peace of mind, you may enjoy the LOWA Tibet GTX.

Do not skimp on footwear; protecting your toes from frostbite is of utmost importance.  At the same time, ensure that your footwear is appropriate for the type of terrain and conditions you are going into.  A boot that is too warm can be almost as unfavorable as having a boot that is not warm enough: you'll be sweating in your boots, which makes you more prone to blisters and trench foot , and also puts you at risk of frostbite if you cool down with wet feet once you stop moving.

Equally important as choosing the right boot is to make sure that your boot has the right fit.  Remember that you'll be wearing thick socks, potentially doubled with liner socks, and your feet will swell from activity and altitude. It is imperative that you have room for your toes to wiggle even under those exacerbated conditions. You can usually manage a boot that's slightly too big on you (or suffer through the blister that the extra space will create on the downhill), but a boot that's slightly too small will constrict blood flow to your toes and increase your risk of permanent tissue damage or worse from frostbite.

The cost for a pair of warm, rigid mountaineering (single) boots typically starts in the $350-$400 range; a good pair of double boots and cost $1000 or more. If buying a pair of mountaineering boots for your next climb is not within your budget, don't despair - you'll be able to rent appropriate footwear on location for most mountaineering expeditions. If you are new to mountaineering, it is in fact advisable to start with a pair of rental boots so you can test out boots prior to committing to the investment of a purchase.

Many high-altitude mountaineering boots do not come in women-specific sizes.  Do not be shy to order a men's boot; you can convert a women's shoe size into a men's shoe size by subtracting 1-1.5 from your size.

Two pairs of LOWA boots
The footwear of choice on Aconcagua: a pair of LOWA Expedition 6000 EVO Rd boots and a pair of LOWA's extremely light & comfortable Innox Pro GTX Mid for the approach

For most expeditions you will only be wearing your mountaineering boots on summit day, for select skills practice sessions, and when added warmth or crampons are necessary for safe upward passage. That means you'll want to have a pair of comfortable, good quality approach shoes to wear when mountaineering boots aren't needed.

Depending on your preference, approach shoes can be a lightweight, soft hiking boot or a low-top trail shoe. We generally recommend GoreTex (better for stream crossings and snow fields) and a sticky rubber sole or for good traction on rock. Trail running shoes may be acceptable if they have good traction and you are confident that you don't need the added ankle support of a mid-top boot. If you choose to bring a low-top trail shoe, you may want to add a lightweight trail gaiter such as Ultimate Direction's FK Gaiter to keep rocks and dirt at bay.

For a mid-top approach boot we recommend the lightweight and soft LOWA Trek Evo GTX Mid.
For a low-top trail shoe, we like the LOWA Delago GTX Lo.

Read more about AWE founder Sunny Stroeer's thoughts on strategic footwear choices over on the LOWA Boots website.

LOWA boots and approach lineup

Camp shoes are an optional luxury item, but one that many expedition climbers (and even some backpackers, too) embrace with enthusiasm. After a long day on your feet, having a comfortable pair of shoes to change into at camp can do wonders for morale.

For high altitude and extreme weather conditions, the obvious choice of camp shoes is a pair of down booties which start in the $50 range and can be as pricey as $100-$120. The more expensive, the better the warmth:weight ratio will likely be. Make sure that the model you choose has an outer sole of some sort - if you are planning to walk around camp in these booties rather than just stay in your tent, a sock-type down bootie will get destroyed in no time.

For expeditions and adventures that take place in moderate conditions, a lightweight pair of sandals or even crocs may work well for camp shoes.

For most mountaineering adventures, you'll want two types of sock: a thin, synthetic or wool hiking sock for the approach and a thick, heavy-weight warm wool sock for summit day. For summit days in extreme temperatures or with boots that are slightly big for your feet, you may even want to layer your thin sock with the heavy-weight sock.

We recommend the following types of socks:
1. Approach -- LOWA Trekking Sock
2. Summit day -- LOWA Winter Pro or Smartwool Mountaineer Classic

While you do not need a fresh pair of socks for every day on the trail, it is important to keep your feet dry, healthy, and happy.  As such, many mountaineers choose to bring two pairs of summit day socks (one pair for the summit, and one to be reserved as nighttime socks throughout the expedition) and one pair or approach socks for every ~3-4 days on the trail. If you know that you'll have the ability to wash clothing during your expedition, you can save weight by bringing fewer approach pairs -- but you should never embark on a big adventure with fewer than two pairs of trekking socks.

Technical Clothing

A long-sleeve sun hoodie should be a wardrobe staple for mountaineers.  This lightweight, full-coverage top doesn’t just help protect you from harmful UV rays, which are extra-potent at altitude and in snowy terrain; it also keeps you cooler than directly exposing your skin to the sun, allows you to derive benefits from evaporative cooling if you soak it in water, and – though it’s designed for breathability and not for warmth – can even serve as an extra warm layer in a pinch. There are several brands that make dedicated sun hoodies; we here at AWExpeditions like the Echo hoody from Outdoor Research.

Why pack a short-sleeve base layer when we recommend using a long-sleeve sun hoody for UV protection and staying cool?  Two reasons: one, a short-sleeve tee may be welcome in situations where you’re not overly worried about UV exposure (say, for warm days in your tent); two, a dedicated base-layer has a more snug fit and warmer material than the long-sleeve sun hoodie, and will make for better layering for warmth on summit day. We recommend the Smartwool Merino 150 Baselayer Short Sleeve Shirt. Whichever base layer you choose, please steer clear of tank tops or halter neck designs as they are prone to producing chafing.  A classic tee shirt style is ideal.

Note: we recommend bringing both a long-sleeve sun hoody and one or more short-sleeve base layer tops for most AWExpeditions adventures. That said, if you are packing ultralight and having to decide between a long-sleeve sun hoodie and a short-sleeve base layer: leave the short-sleeves at home; bring the long-sleeve sun hoodie instead.

Softshell pants are your workhorse trekking or climbing pants. They should be made of a durable, stretchy, water-resistant material and non-insulated (if you need added warmth, you’ll layer with a warm base layer or, in extreme conditions, potentially even down and hardshell pants).

We recommend SheFly’s GoThere pants. Not only are they made of a perfect softshell material and cut in a functional, active fit, but they also sport an ingenuous crotch zipper that allows you to go to the bathroom without having to pull down your pants – a true godsend if you are wearing a harness, and still a very nice privacy bonus even if you are “just” backpacking. We have put these pants to the test and find them to be a top quality piece of outdoor attire that every woman adventurer should have in her gear closet.

Backpacks and Luggage

1) Your mountaineering/trekking backpack: 55-75l

You will carry this pack for the duration of the climb. A mountaineering specific pack with an ice axe ​attachment loop, external crampon or helmet compartment, and detachable brain is ideal.

2) A small, lightweight duffel bag

...or carry-on suitcase. You will need an additional bag to store extraneous belongings

(town/travel clothes, books, etc) at the hotel while we are on the trail.

1) Your mountaineering backpack: 55-75l

You will carry this pack for the duration of the climb. A mountaineering specific pack with an ice axe ​attachment loop, external crampon or helmet compartment, and detachable brain is ideal.

2) A small, lightweight duffel bag

...or carry-on suitcase. You will need an additional bag to store extraneous belongings

(town/travel clothes, books, etc) at the hotel while we are on the trail.

The lighter you pack, the more fun you are likely to have on the mountain.

1) Your expedition/mountaineering backpack like the Hyperlite Southwest 4400.

 

You will carry this pack for the duration of the trek. On the approach to basecamp, you only need to fit ​water, layers, and personal snacks into this pack; the rest of your gear (up to 20kg / 44lbs per ​climber) will be trans- ported to basecamp by mules. You need to be prepared to fit all of your upper ​mountain gear as well as your allotment of team equipment (tent, food, fuel) into this pack. Typical minimum ​pack weight for the ascent of most expeditions is 35lbs; on the final descent back to basecamp the day after our summit ​push, you should expect to carry 50lbs+.

2) A large, sturdy duffel bag like the Base Camp XL Duffel by The North Face

This duffel bag will serve as your mule bag; it needs to be large enough to fit your ice axe, ​mountaineering boots, sleeping bag, sleeping pads and all other upper-mountain necessities. We ​recommend a size XL or XXL Base Camp Duffel Bag from The North Face, or another brand’s ​equivalent. The mule bags are handled rough and will be subject to copious amounts of dust, dirt, rain ​and snow. A sturdy, waterproof leather duffel is preferable.

3) A small, lightweight duffel bag

...or carry-on suitcase. You will need an additional bag to store extraneous belongings (town/travel ​clothes, books, etc) at the hotel while we are on the mountain.

Ice Axes and Tools

Ice axes — Lightweight, straight shaft axes for most of our climbs (low-angle snow climbs). length depends on your body height. This will typically be what we use on our expeditions.

The C.A.M.P. Corsa Ice Axe is a great example of a lightweight and fully rated axe.

Ice tools — Generally are not necessary, and not a good substitute for straight shaft ice axes. For select climbs (Tocllaraju for example) an ice tool is necessary; unless you are an ice climber, it doesn’t really make sense to buy these — it is usually best to rent on location.


What about other climbing & backpacking gear?

Check back soon as we are in the process of adding recommendations for sleeping bags, backpacks, crampons, harnesses etc!

Have a question about gear? Send us an email.